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After a rebuild from shedding the rear key the engine rattled on start up like the timing chain was loose. Putting it earlier on the lift and peeling the valve and front covers off I uncover that the tensioner is fully extended and also the chain is rather loose. Mental you every little thing having to do with the time is new. All the means to the video camer positioners. Bought a 2nd chain thinking something weird happened to the an initial new one however they’re the very same length. No clue what’s going on yet I’d love to fix it yet I’m at the finish of mine 2.4l expertise. Spring for any kind of info on that or simply someone who’s checked out a few of these opened up up to offer me part ideas.
Tensioner, or TensionerS? There’s more than one. And what carry out your plastic travel guide look like?I don’t think there’s much to it: 3 chains, the Tensioners and guides. Drape the chain on, deploy the Tensioners, and also done. The all claimed to occupational - uneven you’ve got the wrong (or a bad) chain? ns presume you’ve watched the Cloyes YouTube video?Did girlfriend take any pictures or video before touching anything? space you sure the Tensioners are fully extended, and also can they retract? did you operation the engine low on oil?
2011 Equinox 1LT (dlvd. January 2011): Summit White / 3.0 together V6 / FWD / Pioneer stereotype / 18" wheel / 169.6 miles <28-SEP-2021>2002 Impala 1LT (dlvd. Jun 2002): Summit White / 3.4 l V6 / FWD / Cassette-CD Combo /240.3k miles <10-JUN-2021>
The 2.4l only has one timing chain tensioner that I’m conscious of. Yes sir a 2nd chain and tensioner that tightens the balance shaft and water pump chain. It’s all brand-new as well and no worries on that one. As far as the timing circuit it’s all brand-new as well. Chain, tensioner, tensioner guide, return guide, even 2 new cam positioner and also sprockets. There really isn’t lot to it and also that’s precisely what’s got me stumped. Haha. It must be straightforward but it there is no been. I can install the tensioner “deployed” and tighten it increase in the bore and it’s still not super tight. I even bought a second chain to replace the first one with and it’s the exact same length. I have tons of pictures. I’ve poured v them yet nothing has really helped. I’m out of ideas.
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Ohhh yeah ... 2.4L is a small different 보다 the V6.OK, fine I read through the procedure for the 2.4L in my 2011 Helm manual, and there show up to be part "gotchas" in there. Due to the fact that this is taxation season, I"ll carry out it choose an IRS checklist:After removing your Engine front Cover, Camshaft Cover, and also #1 Spark Plug ...DID you REMEMBER TO:=====================1.) rotate the crankshaft clockwise till #1 piston is at peak dead center (TDC) on the *exhaust* stroke?2.) usage *new* Camshaft Actuator bolts ~ above both the Exhaust and Intake Actuators (see below in procedure)?3.) for sure the Crankshaft Sprocket"s Timing mark was in the 5-o"clock place while the "key" was in the 12 o"clock position? IMPORTANT: part 2.4 EcoTech engines have actually a "friction washer" in former of the Crankshaft Sprocket which has actually a "dot" which can be mistaken because that the Crank timing Mark!4.) for sure the input Camshaft notch (radiator side) is at the 5 o"clock position and Exhaust Camshaft notch (firewall side) is in ~ 7 o"clock place (while #1 piston is in ~ TDC and also Crankshaft an essential is at 12 o"clock (with Timing mark at 5 o"clock)?5.) heat up the input Actuator Timing mark with the colored connect on the time chain (the 3rd, *non-matching* fancy link?), then install Actuator with chain and hand-tighten Actuator bolt.6.) autumn the chain with the opening in the cylinder head, ensuring that goes approximately both political parties of the cylinder block bosses (not sure specifically what this "bosses" are from the picture).7.) Align the dowel pin into the Camshaft slot when installing the input Camshaft Actuator ~ above the entry Camshaft?8.) course the time chain approximately the Crankshaft, verifying the colored attach (1 the 2 equivalent colored links?) lines up through the Timing mark at the 5 o"clock position? climate install the outer "friction washer" ~ above Crankshaft (if the was current on your vehicle).9.) revolve the Crankshaft clockwise to eliminate all chain slack (*without* rotating the input Camshaft above)10.) download the (curved) adjustable Timing Chain Guide and also tighten its solitary bolt at the bottom come 10 Nm (89 lb in)?11.) line up the Exhaust Actuator Timing mark with the (2nd matching) colored attach on the time chain, climate install Actuator through chain top top Exhaust Camshaft, again - aligning the dowel pin into the Camshaft slot.12.) rotate the Exhaust Camshaft 45 levels until the dowel pin in Actuator goes right into the Camshaft slot, then hand-tighten Actuator bolt.13.) VERIFY every (3) colored LINKS and TIMING MARKS are STILL ALIGNED. If not, correct prior to proceeding.14.) download the (straight) "Fixed timing Chain Guide" and tighten (2) bolts to 12 Nm (106 lb in)?15.) download the "Upper time Chain Guide" and tighten (2) bolts come 10 Nm (89 lb in)?16.) *Reset the timing Chain Tensioner* by remove its snap ring, turning its ratchet cylinder into the piston, climate reinstalling the snap ring? (Manual shows two tools provided with a vise: one is a receptacle, organized by the vise, to host the piston assembly ~ removal indigenous the Tensioner; the other is just a cylindrical device that quickly turns the ratchet cylinder into the piston assembly to "reload" it). 17.) certain the Tensioner seal was great and the threaded hole was clean before re-installing the Tensioner (75 Nm, 55 lb in)? IMPORTANT: for sure the seal stays focused during download to prevent subsequent oil leak!!18.) IMPORTANT: Release/Deploy the Tensioner through "giving a sharp jolt diagonally downwards" to the chain, utilizing a perfect rubber-tipped tool? This shows up to be on the firewall next of the chain? You space trying to compress the Tensioner to release it.19.) Tighten both the Intake and also Exhaust Actuator bolts come 30 Nm (22 lb ft) plus 100 levels by first holding the corresponding Camshaft through a 24 mm open-end wrench?20.) install the timing Chain Oiling Nozzle to 10 Nm (89 lb in)?21.) Re-install the time Chain overview Bolt accessibility Hole Plug by an initial applying sealant (#12345382 us or #10953489 Canada) to the threads, and then tightening come 90 Nm (66 lb ft)? NOTE: this Plug wasn’t mentioned above, yet you needed to eliminate it to accessibility the height bolt ~ above the (straight) addressed Timing Chain guide (step #14).Then, the course, reinstall her Engine former Cover, Camshaft Cover, and #1 Spark Plug.=============Maybe you didn"t properly release the Tensioner ~ installation, or maybe you damaged the chain once striking it? The hand-operated doesn"t say how much deflection the chain should have after appropriate installation.Can you *see* the Tensioner deployed *after* to mark the chain to release it, or space you just doing the on faith (or does the chain tighten up noticeably)? probably your chain is fine and also the noise is native something else? Is the chain to mark the upper Timing Chain Guide? ns think i’ve seen examples of that happening.A compressed/non-active Tensioner is 72mm end-to-end. One acitive/deployed one is 85 mm.And are you certain your Water Pump and Balance shaft Chain are effectively timed, because the manual says if not, “the engine might vibrate or do noise”. That the very same thing similar to the Camshaft chain: begin with the uniquely-colored chain attach lining up v the Timing note on the Intake next Balance obelisk Sprocket, then clockwise under to the Balance pillar Drive Sprocket (Crank) with among the 2 matching-colored web links (Timing note ~6 o’clock position), then approximately the water pump sprocket (alignment not an important here), then the last matching-colored link roughly the exhaust next Balance obelisk Drive sprocket (lining up through Timing mark there). The 2-bolt upper and little right-side Guides obtain 15 Nm (11 lb ft), and also the 1-bolt flexible Guide gets 10 Nm (89 lb in). You need to “reload” this Tensioner just like the one top top the Camshaft chain, but no distinct tools. Simply rotate plunger 90 levels to compress, then back to original 12 o’clock position and insert record clip through hole in plunger body and also into water tap in Tensioner plunger. Climate install Tensioner (2 bolts get 10 Nm) and remove document clip.