Bullet-Point Summary: Get her Bleaching appropriate - EASY, FOOL-PROOF CHECKLIST

Use a good quality bleach, and get prepared your 20 or 30 Vol developer.Use 2 components of developer to 1 part of bleach. Mix in a non-metallic bowl until you obtain a smooth, pretty paste.Apply ~ above dry, unwashed hair.Use 20 Vol once you should lift through 1-2 levels.Use 30 Vol as soon as you should lift by 3 levels or more.Always lift to a an extremely pale yellow (see the photo above and additionally level 10 in the chart below).If there is orange in the hair after ~ bleaching, that just method you did no bleach enough. Friend will have to rinse and do that again. To acquire an also consistent an outcome from roots to ends, constantly apply bleach first to the components that space the darkest or the brassiest so the they get more processing time.If you have a dark regrowth to lift and also blonde ends, only use bleach to the regrowth area and lift that component up.Then rinse and also you will certainly be all set to tone.

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1. I beg your pardon Bleach should I Use?

A great quality lightener which will certainly lift quickly and also efficiently without breaking or damaging is really essential. 

Ugly Duckling bleaches are very safe and also have excellent lifting properties.

We would imply for most instances that you use Brilliant Blondexx lightener with Bond Protect.Thanks come the shortcut Protect, that protects your hair indigenous breakage together you elevator it.

It lifts 7 level without requiring excessively strong developers. 

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach with Bond Protect

2. What perform I require apart indigenous bleach?

In enhancement to her bleach friend will additionally need:

a developer - 20 or 30 Volume, sometimes botha hair tonerPurple shampoo and mask for after that (optional)

You will additionally need application tools, including rubber gloves, a couple of brushes and also bowls, a kitchen weighing scale, and also a timer.

Ugly Duckling does offer a good quality set of experienced tools. Castle come cost-free with few of Ugly Duckling"s blonding sets.

3. What Developer need to I Use with Bleach?

If you room aiming come lift by 1-2 levels, you require 20 Vol developer.

If you space aiming to lift by 3 levels and also more, you require 30 Vol developer.

If you are working with really dark hair, then you might need to perform a first application with 30 Vol developer and then make a second application using 20 Vol developer. Simply make a new mix and reapply ~ above the bleached hair while the is processing - no should rinse and then bleach.

We carry out not recommend the you ever "bump up the Volume" and use 40 Volume v our bleaches, no one is it important that you do so. Simply stick to the over rules. Do multiple applications if necessary.

Use the level guide underneath come assess exactly how much bleaching is crucial in your instance & which developer you room going to need.

Once again, remember: if you space trying to get to ash or platinum blonde, you have to lift all the method up to level 10. 

Hair coloring Levels


4. What is the exactly Bleach to Developer Ratio? 

The encourage bleach to developer ratio is 1 part Bleach to 2 components developer.

This will give you a relatively runny mix which will be easy and quick come apply.

Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will certainly make it simpler to cover every the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.It will also permit you to work-related fast. This also method you have actually longer to work before the mixture transforms dry.

The just time friend will need a thicker mixture which won"t drip is when you are doing a balayage (free paint of highlights) or as soon as you have a little area - for instance a dark regrowth which you desire to focus on.

If a more thickness mix is preferred, 1 part lightener to 1 component developer is good.

5. How do I Mix the Bleach through the Developer?

Use the scoop noted in your Ugly Duckling bleach come measure the end the bleach. Climate you have the right to use the very same scoop come measure out your developer.Later, once you are an ext experienced, you have the right to do that by sight.

Mix the bleach v your color brush until it develops a smooth consistency (similar to gravy).Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the powder bleach a small at a time, stirring as you do.


What a bleach mix need to look choose - runny, however not too runny.

5. Exactly how Should I use the Bleach ~ above the Hair?

Hair bleach is similar to hair color. It is best used on dry, unwashed hair.Unwashed hair includes natural hair oil & this helps protects the hair throughout the bleaching process.Before bleaching, simply brush the hair so the you can then section & use easily.

When applying, make fine segments using a tailcomb. Use segment by segment and also keep moving around.

Always start in the areas where the hair is thickest or darkest. Hair in ~ the earlier is normally the slowest to bleach.

Hair in ~ the root normally processes the fastest.

6. How Long need to I leave the Bleach on the Hair?

Video indict - how Long must you leave bleach top top the hair?

If her client"s hair is blonde (level 7 and also higher) aim at between 15-20 minutes using 20 Vol developer.If your client"s hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at approximately 30 minutes utilizing 30 Vol developer.If her client"s hair is brown/dark brown (level 4-5), target at about around 30-40 minutes using 30 Vol developer through fresh mix added in throughout processing time.

The above indications apply to Ugly Duckling bleaches only. No all bleaches have the very same lifting property.

More essential than the time is the target color that you room aiming for.You have to keep watching and rinse only when the hair has actually been sufficiently lifted.

Remember, in many cases you need to try & accomplish a really pale yellow - level 9 or 10. View pictures listed below for what level 9 and also 10 look like.

You need to check that the hair is lifting every 10 minutes. If over there are components which room drying out and also still not lifted to really pale yellow, make some much more fresh mix and just add it in.

Be bold, you room going to have to saturate the hair yes, really well so the it activates fast and well.

You deserve to use foils. It will aid keep warmth in and also speed up handling time.

Don"t rinse too at an early stage - this is the number one mistake the stylists make! take it come level 9 at the very least (see below).

After 40 minutes, rinse whatever the level. It will certainly be dry anyway, and will have actually stopped working. (Bleach stop processing as soon as it transforms dry).If you have actually not attained level 9/10, and detailed the hair is quiet in an excellent condition (check through pulling a strand that it"s quiet elastic and strong) you have the right to do a 2nd application.

Asian hair, spain hair, various other dark hair may require a 2nd bleach applications to take it to level 9 or level 10.Hair that has been box dyed dark or colored v a vibrant color in the past will likewise require a 2nd application.

When you space doing a 2nd application, it should not be crucial to use 30 Vol. This time use 20 Vol.

You need to remove all the orange colours and also most of the yellow pigments prior to you rinse. When you gain to your target level, rinse utilizing an acidic shampoo. This will certainly close the hair cuticle ~ the bleaching process. You can additionally use violet shampoo. This will assist neutralize the color and take away some of the yellow.







7. How carry out I an application of bleach ~ above the root area?

Generally speaking, virgin regrowth near the source will procedure and lift relatively quickly due to the warm of the scalp.20 Vol developer is what you require for the regrowth area close to the scalp. Never ever use anything stronger there unless you have some color removal you need to do.

If your client"s ends room perfectly light and only your regrowth is dark, then you only need to use bleach ~ above the regrowth area.How lengthy you leave it in will once again rely on how quickly that component takes to acquire to level 9/10.Brilliant Blondexx is a an excellent lightener to usage for a near root applications - it"s more comfortable & we carry out strongly recommend it for near root applications.Note the you don"t actually should deposit the bleach mixture on the scalp: us recommend you stay 1/8 customs away indigenous the root area.The mixture will travel up, and the warm from the scalp will certainly take care of the rest.Section the hair finely when you apply your color, making use of a "pasting" activity with the brush.Then flick over a new section v your tail-comb and also continue in this way.The finer and more consistent her sections, the far better a lifting an outcome you will certainly get.

Near root application with Brilliant Blondexx Bleach

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach processing for 35 min close to the root.

8. How do I carry out a full head bleach?

If your client"s whole head is dark, or brassy you will have to do a full head application 

Section the hair into 4 huge sections with sectioning clips.Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.Start applying bleach in the earlier of the head wherein the hair is usually darkest and also thickest, functioning your means round come the front sections, in half-inch sections.

Work quick so that that girlfriend can offer the entirety head an equal amount of handling time.

Keep the source area come the last uneven the hair is an extremely short: the is walking to process faster there, so girlfriend need much less processing time.If you have actually been using 30 Vol developer because that the lengths, that is a good idea to make a fresh mix, with 20 Vol this time because that the source area.

Make sure that you saturate the hair effectively with the product mixture. You must literally smother the hair with bleach.Watch carefully and also rinse as soon as done, and also rinse anyway after 30-35 minutes.If ~ rinsing you watch that the hair is still no a pale yellow level 9/10, so a second application, utilizing 20 Vol developer just this time.

Section the hair, then start using the bleach native the back.

9. Exactly how do I obtain a nice also consistent an outcome from roots to ends? 

Very regularly clients have hair i beg your pardon is different colors. Take the client below:


This design has:

a regrowth area i beg your pardon is level 6mid-lengths which have been colored but which room brassy yellow - level 8/9ends which have actually been lightened plenty of times in the past and also are yes, really pale white blonde - level 10.

Clearly, it would be a mistake to just apply bleach come the whole head. Girlfriend won"t gain a good result the way. You could also end up with breakage concerns on those level 10 ends.

In such instances you together the hairdresser will need to have actually a clean bleaching strategy. 

In the over case, we used bleach an initial to the level 6 source area, then prolonged to the brassy part. We did no apply any bleach to the level 10 area.

Then us rinsed. Then we toned with an Ugly Duckling toner.

10. Just how do I Tone the Hair after ~ Bleaching?

You will need to tone the hair through a good quality toner. Otherwise there will always be some yellow left.

Ugly Duckling toners are very fast exhilaration & they remove any remaining yellowness in the hair. They plot in 10- 15 minutes. They deserve to be used on wet hair which has actually been towel dried ~ bleaching.

Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense silver Blonde 100B if her are searching for ultra white results and your hair still has a fair amount that yellow. 

Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or Silver Blonde Toner 10B if girlfriend are have actually already completed a true level 10 and also you space looking to perform a refreshing toning applications.

Ugly Duckling has actually other colour such as the blue based ash blonde collection which additionally work really well because that toning applications.Silver Grey and Smoky Blue Grey also work really well.

intense Pearl Blonde 100V
intense Silver Blonde 100B
No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
No-Lift silver- Blonde Toner 10B
silver- Grey
Smoky Blue Grey
Extra irradiate Cold Ash Blonde 10.1B
very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1B

And remember: never ever start toning until you have lugged the hair to a consistent level 10 from roots to ends.

11. Exactly how do I do a bleach wash?

If you want to perform a quick and also light shade correction to eliminate existing color develop up, mix equal parts Brilliant Blondexx Bleach, 20 Vol developer, shampoo and warm water.

Then apply and massage v the entire hair. Leave it for about 15 minutes and also rinse off.

You should have the ability to get rid of at least simple color buildup in this way.

12. Just how long have to I leaving bleach in hair once I am using 20 Vol, 30 Vol & 40 Vol Developer?

First that all, we do not recommend you use 40 Vol developer v bleach.

If you space using a great quality bleach, (and this consists of Ugly Duckling bleaches the course) it will certainly work and also lift an extremely well v 20 or 30 Vol Developer.

For 20 and also 30 Vol developer, the moment taken have the right to vary from 15 minutes up to 30 minutes.

Please note, however, over there is no fixed advance time v bleach - you need to inspect every couple of minutes and also rinse when the hair is lifted.

If you check out that details parts that the hair room drying out during processing time or not lifting fast enough, you need to use your judgement and add in more fresh mix of bleach

13. I beg your pardon Ugly Duckling Bleach is right for Me?

If girlfriend are in search of a very gentle bleach and you space looking to lift 2-7 levels, we would certainly recommend our brand-new Bond safeguard Brilliant Blondexx.It"s obtained a unique ingredient which includes anti-breakage properties, it"s very comfortable ~ above the scalp, and also mixes to a color-like consistency.

If you have actually ultra dark eastern hair, or if girlfriend have currently box colored your hair and you need a super strong bleach to eliminate the color, then we would suggest Brilliant Blonde 8 Level+ Bleach.It"s a blue anti-dust bleach. It have the right to lift approximately 8 levels and also it has been particularly formulated because that dark eastern hair which is the hardest of every to lift.

New excellent Blondexx with Bond Protect: The just lightener in the US with Bond Protect developed in. Recommended for most bleaching cases, specifically for near scalp and root applications.


Brilliant Blonde Lightener: 8+ Level Lift. Recommended because that dark bases & whereby ultra high lift is needed.

Featured Products

15. What Hair treatment Should I usage After Bleaching and Toning?

There space 2 hair treatment ranges that Ugly Duckling would recommend after ~ bleaching.

The very first is Ugly Duckling"s Purple Shampoo or Mask. 

These products give you additional toning and aid keep the hair really white. They contain an extremely intense pigments which aid fight yellow.

Learn more About purple Shampoo and also Mask Here.

See pictures below.



The second is the brilliant Blondexx Hair treatment & therapy Line.

These commodities contain Bond safeguard and aid strengthen bleaching hair. 

Learn more About brilliant Blondexx Hair care Here.

16. What if I only want to go tool blonde. Execute I still need bleach?

Using bleach is crucial whenever you desire to elevator hair through 3 levels and also more. For this reason if your hair is brown or also light brown (level 4) , and also you want to go to medium blonde (level 8), you have a 4 level lift come do. And also that requires bleach!


Case No.1

Our model had actually previously lightened blonde hair through a dark regrowth. It was likewise rather fragile.We used excellent Blondexx Bond protect Bleach through 20 Vol Developer and also lifted her root area all the way up come a level 10.The handling time because that the bleach was approximately 35 minutes. This to be done through 20 Vol developer.Then we toned v Pearl Blonde toner and also 20 Vol Developer as soon as more.Finally, we did one really vigorous and also thorough application of brilliant Blonde violet Shampoo. The result was a perfect white blonde an outcome - no hair damage and also no breakage!

Watch the video clip Now!

Hair by Elona Taki.

See more: How Much Is 17 Grams In Teaspoons (Tsp), 17 Grams To Teaspoons (Tsp)


Brilliant Blondexx Bond defend Lightener20 Vol DeveloperPearl Blonde TonerBrilliant Blonde purple Shampoo

Case No.2

Lifting up of an extremely dark source area utilizing Brilliant Blondexx.

Watch the video clip now!

Hair by Ashley Betancourt


Brilliant Blondexx Bond protect Lightener10 V Pearl Blonde Toner20 & 30 Vol DeveloperBrilliant Blondexx Shampoo & Mask
around the author Sally Madison, National shade Trainer.

Sally has actually been a hair colorist and also trainer for numerous years in both the united state & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She likewise helps develop new & awesome commodities for the brand.