The Cartier Tank watch has remained a classic for an excellent reason. The unisex, understated timepiece — v its experienced craftsmanship, clean lines and effortless style — is the embodiment the modernity, a far cry from the ornamentation and sweeping, organic forms of the late-19th century art Nouveau aesthetic. Draft in the beforehand 1900s by Louis Cartier, nephew of founder Louis-François Cartier, the Cartier Tank watch officially hit the market in 1919 and became an prompt icon.

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The boxy instance of the Cartier Tank watch was inspired by a tank’s cockpit and also treads, a haunting reminder the WWI’s lasting effects. Luigi Cartier reinvented the Tank watch right into a beacon of luxury, forever making horological history. It’s to be worn by anyone from Andy Warhol, Jackie O and also Princess Diana come Kim Kardashian, Sofia Coppola and Angelina Jolie. “Cartier is producing some of the finest timepieces in the organization for over a century now,” says an elderly Fine jewel & the town hall Manager Katie Ward. “Including what ns think of together their many recognizable and also most legibly luxurious product, the Cartier Tank watch. Ns think it’s among the most recognizable pieces a person have the right to wear — I have a crush.”

But of course, favor all good things, the Cartier Tank watch has been copied and also counterfeited, and there’s nothing less luxe than finding out your Cartier watch is a faux. “Whether we’re authenticating a Cartier Love bracelet, or a Tank watch, the same basic principles apply,” describes Ward. “We want to inspect the materials, the design, and the craftsmanship. Hallmarks, signatures and stamps have to all heat up with the hallmark conventions the the moment that we think it come be created to confirm that.” review on as Karin Dickinson, our resident Horologist, elaborates and shares her in-depth tips because that spotting the real deal when it involves the Cartier Tank watch.


What aspects of craftsmanship perform you suppose to watch on an really Cartier Tank watch?I look because that high-quality finishing that the case, dial and also movement. All edges ~ above a actual Cartier situation should be smooth to the touch through no sharpness or metal burs. The dial must be laid the end cleanly and clearly (no blobs of paint where over there shouldn’t be and no jagged lines). I additionally look for the Cartier “secret signature” top top the clock dial. If you examine the markers closely, one will have “Cartier” written out in very small text within a roman inn numeral. Cartier will certainly usually include these in the 10 o’clock and 7 o’clock markers. It varies from model to design which number they hide the in, but it’s nearly always there.

Next, us verify that the crown cabochon fits correctly, has no wiggle room around the diameter the the rock and is do from the correct rock — sapphire for every 18k models and also spinel because that two-tone.

Cartier likewise does luxury finishing the their activities — i.e. The watch’s inner instrument — also on watches without transparent exhibition casebacks. Once looking at the movements, I intend to view clear sculpture of the logo, caliber, et cetera on authentic pieces. I additionally look for specific finishing approaches on the activity itself, points not clearly shows on the watch’s exterior: Geneva stripes, good perlage and also anglage. Geneva stripes are an completely decorative sample consisting of line patterns. Good perlage consists of one or linear patterns top top the metal, and also anglage is a beveled, typically high-polish finishing to the edge of the mainplate and bridges. Often all three of these patterns are present in an yes, really Cartier watch, though periodically it’s only two of the three.


If a actual Cartier Tank has actually diamond accents, what should they look like?If a Cartier Tank watch has diamond markers, the settings must be clean, and the diamonds must all have the exact same cut, through the very same diameter, constant clarity and also color. This is miscellaneous a the majority of counterfeiters get wrong, due to the fact that they commonly aren’t diamond experts. There to be a period from the 1980s v the 1990s where exterior stones to be of slightly lower clarity and also color ratings; these diamonds should be either colorless or nearly colorless and also may feature small inclusions or blemishes within the diamond. Anything from the year 2000 onward must be an extremely high quality as much as the rock and craftsmanship goes. The same goes with diamonds ~ above the case for contemporary models.

What hallmarks and details go Cartier usage for Tank watches, and what carry out counterfeits frequently get wrong?A real Cartier Tank watch should incorporate the Cartier logo and a serial number consist of of two letters and also a numeric code. You should likewise see the instance material and also metal hallmarks, though periodically these will not be listed. Most frequently we see models in steel, 18k gold and steel, and exclusively 18k gold, though Cartier does usage platinum for choose models. Authentic Cartier watches will also nearly always feature a 4-digit version number. Making use of the 4-digit number, one deserve to do more research via Google and find the ever elusive “W” number, which is Cartier’s actual recommendation number. Counterfeiters usually miss out on this.


Another information to look out for space the screws supplied for the caseback and bracelet. Usually speaking, fine Swiss watch providers use flat-head screws, and also the knockoffs we view come from asian manufacturers nearly always come with Phillips head screws. I freshly saw a fake “Ballon Bleu” come in that had actually a snap-back instance that the illegitimate manufacturer had actually actually engraved screw heads onto — from a distance, that looked choose it had the correct flat-head screws, however up close, you can see the was simply engraving.

We additionally check because that the high quality of engraving. Any type of engraving ~ above the caseback or clasp need to be deep, crisp, clear and neatly laid out, as well as actually engraved with a cut tool. The a authorize of a fake if the engraving is pixelated under high magnification. Fakers frequently use laser engraving, which leaves a grainy, sloppy finish. Markings denoting material kind may likewise be featured on the clasp.

What are the major differences among Cartier’s Tank styles?


Cartier Tank Américaine; Cartier Tank Divan; Cartier Tank Anglaise; Cartier Tank Louis; Cartier Tank Française Chronoreflex; Cartier Tank Solo

The distinctions in Tank layouts have to execute with in its entirety case shape, and the method the lugs are shaped. The Américaine is elongated, if the Divan is much shorter and elongated horizontally. The Anglaise will have actually a guard over the crown. The louis is additionally rectangular but the tips of the lugs are rounded, and the crown cabochon is usually more pointed. Chronoreflex versions of the Tank will function a chronograph complication. Finally, the Tank Solo looks a lot prefer the Louis but has a planarization profile, not rounded. And also the timeless Française is more of a classic rectangular shape, but the lugs are sloped in ~ an angle.

What differentiate Cartier from various other watchmakers?Overall, Cartier is a an extremely jewelry-oriented company, since so lot of what they manufacture is well jewelry, and also that reflects in your watch lines. They’ve branched the end from fine jewelry into other luxury locations over the years, however their goal has constantly been come create classic designs that will last past the fashion trend of the moment. They’ve succeeded beautifully with their Tank watch line.

Now that you can spot a genuine Cartier Tank watch, invest in your very own now.

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